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When assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners completely astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.